Yea, I'm tempted to throw 'Kia? Help' after the title, but its not a spinoff... lol.
I'm pretty sure my battery is totally kicked. it wont take a charge, and when I try to start it, the ignition goes.. TICK..TICK...TICK. TICK TICK.... no juice at all. sounds like the battery, right?
is it something I can just unplug myself? buy a new one, and plug it back in?
Is it easy to change a car battery?
Started by
nikkiblue
, Apr 13 2012 02:22 PM
181 replies to this topic
#5
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 02:42 PM
We just had to do this - read the car manual for guidance. You unclip the cables (mark them if they are old and you can't tell which is positive and which is negative - at least, this was true with our truck! 
), unclip anything that holds the battery in-place, pull out the battery, put in the new one and do it all over again in reverse.
Ta-DAH! New fresh battery and now the radio will actually work - or at least, that's what happened when we swapped out for a freshie!
), unclip anything that holds the battery in-place, pull out the battery, put in the new one and do it all over again in reverse.Ta-DAH! New fresh battery and now the radio will actually work - or at least, that's what happened when we swapped out for a freshie!
#6
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 02:52 PM
It's usually simple unless you have a foreign car with no space under the hood and the battery is buried underneath radiator distribution hoses, etc...like say, a Honda Civic from the early 90s. Disconnect and clean receptacles, tighten onto new battery. Re-attach mounts if needed and start the car. Continue driving.
#10
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:02 PM
When did you get your car back?
*SIGH* You won't even believe this update...
I don't even have the heart to bump the waitressing thread. My $1200 tax check was deposited yesterday like it was supposed to... Thank God. So, first thing in the morning, I went to the bank & withdrew the $1300 I had in there, (I now have $13) and bought a western union money order for $1,110 (+$20 for the money transfer) which is what I needed to give to the finance company to get my car back. The bank Clears me, and I call the repo people who tell me I need to give them $260 to get my car from them. I only have $200. Augie gives me the $60 (after he just spent $650 on HIS car) and we travel 45 minutes to get the car.
We get there, and the battery is barely hanging on, and completely dies without starting. We try to charge it, and nothing.... CLICK CLICKCLICKCLICKCLICK from the ignition. It's been sitting a week, and the battery is old. So. not having any money, and not sure whats really wrong with it....I left it in the parking lot to go deal with it today...
So.. now I have to figure out how to get blood from a stone.
#12
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:08 PM
The real question is why is the battery not holding a charge? How old is it? Are you sure just the battery is toast and not the system wich charges it when the car is running?
It is old. Ive had the car a long time, and its never been replaced.
The problem is just tenfolded. Because of the DWI I got in Sept. 2010, I have the ignition interlock breathalyzer thingy in my car, which drains the battery. AND, I have to bring the car in by tomorrows monthly deadline and spend $100 to get the interlock 'calibrated', If I dont get the car there tomorrow, its a violation on my interlock, and they lock me out until I pay an extra $85 for the violation.
#14
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:09 PM
Is the connectiion between the battery post and the cable terminal all corroded? If so, you may be able to just pull it off & clean it up.
When you put jumper cables on you usually connect them to the cable terminal. If the connection between that and the battery post is shitty, the battery won't take a charge.
Sometimes factory radios need a security code entered after a battery is removed to make them work again. Theft prevention shit. The code might be in the owners manual if it needs one.
When you put jumper cables on you usually connect them to the cable terminal. If the connection between that and the battery post is shitty, the battery won't take a charge.
Sometimes factory radios need a security code entered after a battery is removed to make them work again. Theft prevention shit. The code might be in the owners manual if it needs one.
#15
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:10 PM
If you charged the battery it is probibly a starter or ignition problem but i am not a mechanic.
I hope not. I hope its just the battery. Before they towed it, it was working just fine, so I dunno. I hope its not damage caused from it being towed.
#19
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:13 PM
do you have AAA?
I have a roadside assistance through my insurance. I called yeterday, and they said they will tow it equivalent to the nearest Chevy dealer. Let me look into that now.
Maybe I can bring it to a goodyear, or firestone or something....
theres also a Wal-mart up the road.... (*ducks and runs*)
#22
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:16 PM
Is the connectiion between the battery post and the cable terminal all corroded? If so, you may be able to just pull it off & clean it up. When you put jumper cables on you usually connect them to the cable terminal. If the connection between that and the battery post is shitty, the battery won't take a charge. Sometimes factory radios need a security code entered after a battery is removed to make them work again. Theft prevention shit. The code might be in the owners manual if it needs one.
Im not sure if theres any corrosion. The cars not that fancy... I dont even have electric windows. lol. It was the first Cobalt they made... kind of a generic prototype model. super no-frills, but shes been good to me.
#32
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:41 PM
my advice: ASAP have the car jump-started, drive it directly to where they calibrate the interlock. do this before anything else.
then, if the car starts once the calibration is completed, you'll know either that they drained your battery (which accepted a recharge on the drive from repo to calibration) or that the battery is dead, in which case you can replace it at the site of the calibration.
good luck. a 7-year-old Chevy may have a dead battery. it's likely not any other issue (say alternator or such).
then, if the car starts once the calibration is completed, you'll know either that they drained your battery (which accepted a recharge on the drive from repo to calibration) or that the battery is dead, in which case you can replace it at the site of the calibration.
good luck. a 7-year-old Chevy may have a dead battery. it's likely not any other issue (say alternator or such).
#33
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:42 PM
Nicole. It sounds like the battery is drained due to the dui device. Just because it's old it may not be dead. I would definitely try hooking up jumper cables to the car to at least get it started. That will help you to determine whether or not it's the battery. If the car will start hooked up to cables, and stays on after the cables are removed, but won't start at all after it's turned off, then you'll know for sure it's the battery.
Otherwise, it might just be the dui device getting in the way of the car starting properly.
Otherwise, it might just be the dui device getting in the way of the car starting properly.
#34
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 03:43 PM
Nicole. It sounds like the battery is drained due to the dui device. Just because it's old it may not be dead. I would definitely try hooking up jumper cables to the car to at least get it started. That will help you to determine whether or not it's the battery. If the car will start hooked up to cables, and stays on after the cables are removed, but won't start at all after it's turned off, then you'll know for sure it's the battery. Otherwise, it might just be the dui device getting in the way of the car starting properly.
dude, i so said this like 10 seconds before you did.
#39
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#46
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:00 PM
Im not sure if theres any corrosion. The cars not that fancy... I dont even have electric windows. lol. It was the first Cobalt they made... kind of a generic prototype model. super no-frills, but shes been good to me.
If there's corrosion there you'll see it. Usually white crusty looking shit all around the post/terminal. The terminal may have just came loose too.
If you take the battery out and take it to Advanced Auto or I think Auto Zone they'll load test it and tell you if it's bad or not. If they say the battery is not bad, they it's likely a connection somewhere is loose or corroded or something. If it's bad, well, then you know.
#48
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:01 PM
If there's corrosion there you'll see it. Usually white crusty looking shit all around the post/terminal. The terminal may have just came loose too. If you take the battery out and take it to Advanced Auto or I think Auto Zone they'll load test it and tell you if it's bad or not. If they say the battery is not bad, they it's likely a connection somewhere is loose or corroded or something. If it's bad, well, then you know.
omg.. do those places help you change it?
#49
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- VibeTribe
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Posted 13 April 2012 - 04:02 PM
Of course, we fail at having a chick magnet spacious enough to house a chick, Chris. I guess it's all about pulling over, getting out and going from there....
well, the motor is in the back, so what the unknowing viewer cannot see, is the ladyfriend is afforded very comfortable riding space in the front compartment. rear to the front, face to the lap.
