curcaster
Started by
insolent cur
, Mar 15 2012 12:09 PM
216 replies to this topic
#152
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- VibeGuide
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- 125 posts
VibeGuide
Posted 14 June 2012 - 07:39 PM
Definitely gonna need #3s. Definitely.
gotta catch me playing to make that happen.
Looks great, Adam.
thanks, dave!
Also, will you be adding the inbedded LED lights in blue or read at any point?
um...no. in fact, i had to convince bub that his guitar was no place for an led light.
Forget the #3s, I'm shooting for a #4. Actually shouldering that beauty.
next time you are in town feel free to stop over.
#160
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- VibeGuide
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VibeGuide
Posted 14 June 2012 - 11:53 PM
thanks sarah. both the specs and axe are new. 
the dremel can be a tricky little machine until you get a feel for it. i'm impressed that you were able to make an improvised crown using one. i'm still working on trying to freehand a circle using a tiny round bit on maple.
the dremel can be a tricky little machine until you get a feel for it. i'm impressed that you were able to make an improvised crown using one. i'm still working on trying to freehand a circle using a tiny round bit on maple.
#163
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- VibeGuide
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VibeGuide
Posted 16 June 2012 - 10:49 AM
thanks everybody for the supportive comments throughout! so far i've only run it briefly through the small amp. that said, i like it! the chambered body sides give it more resonance than i thought they would...and makes it weigh in around 6 lbs, as opposed to the lp on the wall which weighs in at around 11lbs. as i had hoped, the neck-through-body seems to provide nice natural sustain. when i return home and run it through my 1971 modded pro-reverb...it'll go to 11.
it needs a few adjustments next weekend. i have to scrape off some unseen finish so the back cover plate lies flat, as well as in the pick-up cavities so they sit flat and adjust properly. i may shift the bridge by a tiny bit, depending on the outcome of removing finish drips in the pick-up cavities. i still need to affix the new truss rod cover; replace frets 8 and 11 due to some buzz on the low e string at both of those points (the other five strings at those frets sound perfect); make a new nut (i cut two slots too deep by the thickness of a piece of paper); and add a drop of solder needed to make the neck p-90 coil function properly (the rail on that pick-up sounds fine).
after the mechanical and electrical tweaks, i'll add a final coat of finish and then use rubbing compound for a nice, satiny glow.
it needs a few adjustments next weekend. i have to scrape off some unseen finish so the back cover plate lies flat, as well as in the pick-up cavities so they sit flat and adjust properly. i may shift the bridge by a tiny bit, depending on the outcome of removing finish drips in the pick-up cavities. i still need to affix the new truss rod cover; replace frets 8 and 11 due to some buzz on the low e string at both of those points (the other five strings at those frets sound perfect); make a new nut (i cut two slots too deep by the thickness of a piece of paper); and add a drop of solder needed to make the neck p-90 coil function properly (the rail on that pick-up sounds fine).
after the mechanical and electrical tweaks, i'll add a final coat of finish and then use rubbing compound for a nice, satiny glow.
#164
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- VibeTribe
- 10,422 posts
Posted 16 June 2012 - 01:40 PM
Nice work, Mr. Luthier!
Will you give us a demonstration at Vibes?
thank you! it still needs some tweaks, but it's almost there.
you mean like occupy vibes?
I would gladly march in that demonstration
Thanks Adam, I really enjoyed watching you work your wood
#167
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- VibeTribe
- 1,630 posts
- LocationHazlet, NJ
Posted 19 June 2012 - 09:44 PM
looks so awesome cur... was a pleasure to read the journey.. can't wait to get a sound clip... i am not building a guitar.. but finally after 5 years of saving up.. i am getting the guitar i wanted.. Paul Reed Smith McCarty Hollowbody.. i will have it just after Vibes.. i used to work at guitar center.. and would play this thing... and it just fit me... i am not the greatest guitar player.. and played acoustic most of my life.. but everytime i noodled around on this thing... i always said..."one day..." well, finally it's happening.
#170
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- VibeGuide
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- 125 posts
VibeGuide
Posted 20 June 2012 - 01:46 PM
thanks, guys!
occifer...that prs is a sweet guitar! i'm not a great player either...i just wanted a custom axe, made to my specs, without having to drop 3-5k. my next guitar build will be a thin solid body with only a piezo under the bridge, and a volume/preamp on board. i want to check out setting up the piezo system before (though basically contemporaneously with) an electric violin project in which i'm planning to use a similar piezo/preamp setup.
D&G...we can talk...but as of now you'd be fourth down the list. figure on a starting cost of about 1k for parts alone.
occifer...that prs is a sweet guitar! i'm not a great player either...i just wanted a custom axe, made to my specs, without having to drop 3-5k. my next guitar build will be a thin solid body with only a piezo under the bridge, and a volume/preamp on board. i want to check out setting up the piezo system before (though basically contemporaneously with) an electric violin project in which i'm planning to use a similar piezo/preamp setup.
D&G...we can talk...but as of now you'd be fourth down the list. figure on a starting cost of about 1k for parts alone.
#179
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- VibeGuide
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- 125 posts
VibeGuide
Posted 22 June 2012 - 06:47 PM
definitely not selling the first guitar i made. it's mine.
the signatures will be protected by either an extra layer or two of sprayed on lacquer finish or, if adding finish will have a negative impact on the ink, i'll use clear pick-guard material cut to fit that back cover.
the signatures will be protected by either an extra layer or two of sprayed on lacquer finish or, if adding finish will have a negative impact on the ink, i'll use clear pick-guard material cut to fit that back cover.
#180
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- VibeTribe
- 809 posts
Posted 23 June 2012 - 09:51 AM
D&G...we can talk...but as of now you'd be fourth down the list. figure on a starting cost of about 1k for parts alone.
better save my money for return visits home in that case
congrats on the sigs though! just turned your curcaster from Classy guitar, to Dat-shit-priceless
#187
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- VibeGuide
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VibeGuide
Posted 24 June 2012 - 03:09 PM
6/23
tweaking a flush cover fit after the shakedown week. the guitar is disassembled in order to make a few changes and for application of final layers of finish, both brushed and then sprayed.
test piece of maple. brush on lacquer will not work to seal the signatures, but i believe a couple of light layers sprayed on should do the job without causing the ink (sharpie) to run, smear or fade.
tweaking a flush cover fit after the shakedown week. the guitar is disassembled in order to make a few changes and for application of final layers of finish, both brushed and then sprayed.
test piece of maple. brush on lacquer will not work to seal the signatures, but i believe a couple of light layers sprayed on should do the job without causing the ink (sharpie) to run, smear or fade.
#194
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- VibeGuide
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VibeGuide
Posted 06 July 2012 - 02:06 AM
thanks, josh and micki!
i'm still working on the finish, but have employed an entirely new approach.
i'm sanding off the finish on the mahogany back after realizing that brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together. bubbles form and dry within the thicker, brushed on coats. after sanding the finish off of the back, i'll use very thin coats of spray on lacquer to finish the job.
here are a few pictures from the process.
late june/early july: bubbles which illustrate how brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together.
late june/early july: sanding off the finish on the mahogany back after realizing that brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together.
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 1
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 2
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 3
i'm still working on the finish, but have employed an entirely new approach.
i'm sanding off the finish on the mahogany back after realizing that brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together. bubbles form and dry within the thicker, brushed on coats. after sanding the finish off of the back, i'll use very thin coats of spray on lacquer to finish the job.
here are a few pictures from the process.
late june/early july: bubbles which illustrate how brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together.
late june/early july: sanding off the finish on the mahogany back after realizing that brush on lacquer and mahogany don't play well together.
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 1
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 2
07/05 - sanding finish off of the back 3
#196
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- VibeGuide
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- 125 posts
VibeGuide
Posted 16 July 2012 - 10:34 AM
brief building hiatus. got some other things to tend to this week.
once the finish is removed from the surface of the mahogany, i'll hit it with VERY thin coats of the satin finish spray-on lacquer. hopefully that will resolve the bubbling that occurs when the lacquer is brushed on the back. the front of the guitar had no issues taking the lacquer by brush or spray, and will be sanded down and buffed once the back is set for the same.
depending on both the height and angle of the strings coming off of the bridge, i may also need to mill down the area under the tailpiece/bridge by a mm or two, in order to get the action just right. i'll know more once i finish cutting and installing the new nut.
the only electronics issue that remains is replacing the neck pickup triple-shot switching ring.
once the finish is removed from the surface of the mahogany, i'll hit it with VERY thin coats of the satin finish spray-on lacquer. hopefully that will resolve the bubbling that occurs when the lacquer is brushed on the back. the front of the guitar had no issues taking the lacquer by brush or spray, and will be sanded down and buffed once the back is set for the same.
depending on both the height and angle of the strings coming off of the bridge, i may also need to mill down the area under the tailpiece/bridge by a mm or two, in order to get the action just right. i'll know more once i finish cutting and installing the new nut.
the only electronics issue that remains is replacing the neck pickup triple-shot switching ring.
#199
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- VibeGuide
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VibeGuide
Posted 04 August 2012 - 08:34 PM
preparing to dis-assemble the wiring and components - end of july.
dis-assembling the components - end of july.
dis-assembled...ground wire removed moments later - end of july
sanding off the remaining finish from the back - end of july. that small spot of finish remaining at the top of the back, is the finish filled grain flaw...still nice and flush. the very few tiny bubbles in that spot will remain (character).
beginning to sand, level and smooth the front - end of july. once the finish and top are ready, i'll shoot it with a few very thin layers of spray on satin lacquer, and finish by gently smoothing and buffing the final coat.
