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#1 insolent cur

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 12:09 PM

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03/14/12...and so it begins. walnut, maple and purple heart. neck through body made from laminated strips of the same; purple heart in the center spot.

#2 TEO

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 04:28 PM

:smile:

#3 JBetty

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Posted 15 March 2012 - 04:29 PM

Cool!

#4 vinandtonic

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 05:08 PM

awesome!

#5 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 23 March 2012 - 05:29 PM

Nice work. Glad to know the shop is still open and production is underway. :D

#6 insolent cur

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:08 AM

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fret distance measurements.

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oops.

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both fretboards

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cutting angles on the fretboard.


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different layout

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routing the truss rod channel.

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sanding a radius onto the fretboard and binding.

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radius beginning to show.

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new template with modified curves.

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planing mahogany for the back.

#7 insolent cur

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 04:18 AM

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glued and clamped mahogany back.

#8 jg

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 09:58 PM

I've always wondered, what are the curves based on? Comfort? Style? Balance?

#9 insolent cur

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:04 PM

I've always wondered, what are the curves based on? Comfort? Style? Balance?

elements of all those considerations.

#10 insolent cur

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:10 PM

some of today's progress... .

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the rough cut mahogany back on the laminated through body neck.

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fretboard on jig, on neck, on back.

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fretboard on jig, on neck, on back with an uncut half of the top.

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neck and top with traced template.

#11 insolent cur

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 12:10 AM

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3/30 - rough cut (the blur going by under the vise is woody)

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3/30 - rough cut w/fretboard on jig

#12 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 12:37 AM

Impressive and absolutely awesome, Adam. :guitar:

#13 insolent cur

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 01:06 PM

thanks, dave! i'm enjoying the process and learning a lot. :)

#14 nancykind

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 03:53 PM

nice!! :jam:

#15 noro

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Posted 31 March 2012 - 11:11 PM

Wow! Very nice!

#16 insolent cur

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 02:02 PM

thanks!

i got a little work in yesterday, measuring the fretboard for guide cuts. i already squared off the body end of the fretboard and sawed the first fret slot. first fret spacing was determined by placement of a naturally occurring pinhole in the wood. pinhole gone...fret slot cut.

#17 insolent cur

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 11:23 PM

a few pics from today at the shop:

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chambering the back

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chambering the back

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chambered back

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inside of the front before chambering

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chambered body layout

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chambered body assembled before being glued and clamped

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body - clamped and glued both cross-wise and down

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fretboard with fret measurements.

#18 insolent cur

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 02:02 AM

today at the shop:

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fretboard marked for cutting

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cutting the 22nd initial fret groove

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post clamp-down layout

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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body - post initial shaping

#19 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 02:08 AM

That is awesome, cur. Truly awesome.

#20 insolent cur

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 02:13 AM

thanks, tasb...it's a good time and i'm learning a hell of a lot!

#21 JBetty

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 12:57 PM

Totally digging this thread! :smiley:

I hope to have a chance to hear you play this guitar.

#22 insolent cur

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:22 AM

here are a few pictures from today:

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headstock concept. 4/2 tuner set-up.

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milling down the headstock to tuner depth

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template on milled headstock

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milled and cut headstock (w/template) and maple fretboard for measuring. i decided i wanted 24 frets instead of 22. now the actual fretboard, to the right, has 24 fret slots.

#23 JBetty

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:06 PM

Why the additional notes?
More range?

#24 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 02:45 PM

Looking good, cur.
Are you going to hollow any areas for weight distribution? Bubs bass is nice, but a touch on the heavy side, IMO.

#25 insolent cur

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:04 PM

Why the additional notes? More range?

jerry had 24 frets on his custom made guitars. since i have the option, i figured why not? :)

#26 insolent cur

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:09 PM

Looking good, cur. Are you going to hollow any areas for weight distribution? Bubs bass is nice, but a touch on the heavy side, IMO.

one reason i'm making this guitar is because my lp is too damn heavy. by chambering both the back and front pieces, only leaving the neck through body solid including the portion of the back to which the neck is affixed, i've already trimmed a great deal of weight from the guitar. :)

#27 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:17 PM

Excellent! :bigsmile:

#28 JBetty

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 03:59 PM

jerry had 24 frets on his custom made guitars. since i have the option, i figured why not? :)



I like the way you think! :lol:

#29 insolent cur

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:07 AM

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#30 insolent cur

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 02:54 AM

today...

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preparing to rout neck angles

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preparing to rout a curve into the back of the neck

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beginning to carve the heel

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looking down the front

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looking down the back

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layout with rough routed neck and double sided tape on the fretboard back

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layout with taped on, though untrimmed fretboard

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don't drop it...

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taped, untrimmed fretboard on neck

#31 insolent cur

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 01:46 AM

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using a rasp to shape the neck

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clamped for rasping

#32 insolent cur

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 01:03 AM

i did some more work this evening on shaping the neck and heel, using rasps and sandpaper blocks.

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shaping the heel

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untrimmed fretboard on shaped neck

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shaping the neck radius

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soon come hardware...pickups...strings and music. first more shaping and trimming.

#33 insolent cur

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 03:38 AM

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i'm comfortable with the neck, so i began to shape the back using a rasp and sandpaper.

#34 insolent cur

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 01:17 AM

pics from today. i worked on the fretboard and some parts came in.

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i cut the nut groove and beveled the fretboard.

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rough layout

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rough layout

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rough layout

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rough layout

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truss rod placement

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truss rod placement

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another flying neck shot

#35 JBetty

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:09 PM

Is the truss rod just for support, or does it have another function?

#36 insolent cur

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 12:28 PM

Is the truss rod just for support, or does it have another function?

with a laminated neck like mine, hopefully it serves little purpose. it sits in the neck, under the fretboard, in order to adjust the fretboard "lengthwise forward curvature/relief" should it become necessary. it'll also add stability to the neck, especially since the one i am installing is actually a double rod truss rod.

here's a link to a more in depth description: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truss_rod

this links to the particular truss rod i am installing: http://www.stewmac.c...ut_Hot_Rod.html

#37 insolent cur

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 03:07 PM

i spent friday afternoon and early evening shaping the body using rasps, wood chisels, a small dremel sander and hand sanding.

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a better shot of the nut groove and beveled fretboard end.

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beginning to shape the back using a rasp

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beginning to shape the back using a rasp

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beginning to shape the forearm bevel

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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shaping the body

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shaping the body. i put a deeper pocket in the back under the neck, for the heel of my hand, than i had originally considered. not that i'll have reason to play them often, but it makes the last few frets much more accessible. i'll start using my regular camera to get shots that better reflect nuances the iphone can't.

#38 insolent cur

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 03:09 PM

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out in the sunshine - forearm bevel taking shape.

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out in the sunshine - the scallops/beveld edges are more visible here. besides the one under the neck, there's one on the top and on one the bottom on the back.

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out in the sunshine - here you can see the rough forearm bevel. sitting in the sun also darkens the purple heart, although here it will be of no concern as the top has yet to be sanded down, which will bring out the lighter grain again. it also makes every flaw; every scratch and every tiny hole visible, so they can be filled and sanded at the appropriate stage.

#39 insolent cur

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Posted 17 April 2012 - 01:00 AM

this evening:

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neck through body

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did some work on the forearm bevel

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eyeballing the lines

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fretwork begins

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cutting fret grooves

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cutting fret grooves

#40 insolent cur

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Posted 17 April 2012 - 01:03 AM

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cut fretboard

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cut fretboard

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rough measurements with 25 1/2" line clearly marked

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neck, headstock and truss rod channel

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heel and neck/body join

#41 insolent cur

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 04:18 AM

after a brief hiatus, i spent time this evening sanding and shaping the body in preparation for routing cavities for the pickups, and drilling holes for the tuners. it fits nicely in it's new skb case.

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#42 Smiles

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 05:21 AM

Looks like it's going to be a beautiful instrument! Is this your first guitar?

Can't wait to see it all shiny and rock n' roll :jamguy:

#43 insolent cur

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 11:31 AM

yup. i own other guitars, but this is my first build.

ordering greenish abalone dots for the fretboard today. i can't put the frets on until the dots are inlaid and sanded down. the tuning machines (4+2) are being picked up at hipshot on friday. at that point, except for the pick-ups and ordered dots, all of the hardware will be on my work shelf or already installed.

i still have to rout the truss rod channel further into the headstock to be able to reach it with an allen wrench, and also drill and cut holes for tuners, knobs, switches and the back access panel. then there's the wiring, finishing and sanding... .

#44 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 01:38 PM

Nice work, Adam. It's really coming together nicely.

#45 insolent cur

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 06:09 PM

confirmation from bubba that he's picked up the hipshot tuning machines. their products are mechanical works of art ( http://store.hipshot...ct_detail&p=247 ). i ordered a pair of seymour duncan p-rails pickups ( http://www.seymourdu...t/prails_shpr1/ ); and decided to try a new seymour duncan product called a "triple shot" ( http://www.seymourdu...riple_shot_swi/ ), which eliminates the need for two of the three planned toggle switches, and appears to be MUCH easier wiring for a n00b. by using the triple shot pick-up rings, i can combine virtually any combination of humbucker/single coil available with a pair of p-rails without putting two extra holes in the top of the guitar. :)

#46 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 06:16 PM

Those Duncan triples look awesome. So, it's effectively a single coils and a humbucker in one?

#47 JBetty

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 06:18 PM

Looking great, but shouldn't you be heading south right quick?

#48 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 06:21 PM

Duncan Triple

application
Ground breaking, patent pending design allows a full-size humbucker to split to either a “real deal” P-90 or a traditional single coil. Perfect for a wide variety of styles including country, pop, surf, jazz, blues, classic rock, and heavy rock.
description
Until now, if you wanted humbucker, P-90, and vintage Strat® tones, you’d have to haul three guitars to the gig. Enter P-Rails™. It’s a full-size humbucker that splits to either a full-size P-90 or a special Alnico-powered single-coil Rail pickup. The humbucker sound is full and expansive, owing to the mis-matched coil configuration. The P-90 is a super fat. And the Rail coils, when used together, sound like the “2” and “4” positions in a great Strat.
complete setup
P-Rails are best used in a matched neck and bridge set. To get both humbucker and P-90 tones, use a two-way switch (push-pull or mini-toggle). To have humbucker and P-90 tones and bring in the added dimension of the single-coil Rail, use a three-way switch (DPDT on-off-on).
guitars
P-Rails can be used in any guitar set up for a traditional humbucker or Trembucker. A single P-Rails will bring added dimension to your guitar. However, to optimize P-Rails’ unique splitting capabilities and get the best single-coil Rails tones, use a neck and bridge set.
available mods
Normally, in humbucking mode, P-Rails are wired in series, for a high-output sound that works great for classic rock and heavier tones. However, when wired in parallel, the coil mismatch produces a very usable P.A.F.-style humbucker tone with less phase cancellation associated with standard parallel wired humbuckers, complete with present upper-mid “bloom” and pronounced string articulation.



Excellent. That beauty is going to bring the sound walls. Lots of options in there. Lots of bang for the buck.

#49 insolent cur

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 06:51 PM

Those Duncan triples look awesome. So, it's effectively a single coils and a humbucker in one?

yeah...and each of the singles are different; it's a classic gibson style p-90 mated to a fender style single rail to form the humbucker. the switch allows playing either single coil or the humbucker.

#50 TakeAStepBack

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Posted 27 April 2012 - 07:00 PM

<p style="margin-left: 40px">Nice choice, Adam. I look forward to the opportuntiy to strum it when complete.</p>